AHAs and BHA: What Skin Acids Should You Be Using?

Every Sex and the City fan can remember Samantha Jones’ first experience with acid—of the skin variety.

It might be 15 years since her red-raw skin debuted on TV, but the word ‘acid’ used in conjunction with ‘skin’ still sends shivers down some spines.

The truth is, acids such as alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) and salicylic acid do have the ability to dissolve a layer of dead skin in one simple swipe—but with zero burn and zero downtime. And that’s just the beginning of their charm; in the last few years AHAs and every acid in between has kicked it up a gear, making them the unsurpassable superheroes of the skincare world.

Here, a refresher on the cult classics and an introduction to the new-gen buys worth knowing.

GLYCOLIC ACID

Widely regarded as the holy grail of acids, glycolic acid can be used to tackle most skin ageing gripes including fine lines, pigmentation, lacklustre skin, uneven texture and dryness. The ultimate exfoliator, it sloughs off dulling dead skin cells and improves cellular renewal revealing a youthful, radiant complexion. Found in everything from peels and moisturisers to body lotions and serums, it’s the AHA with the smallest molecular size meaning it’s able to penetrate the skin easily and yield the best results. Glycolic can be used daily—though, as with all acids, follow the instructions religiously and ease your skin in. Most experts advise introducing acid every 2-3 days to start with, building up to daily use over four weeks. Due to the low pH of AHAs, it’s not unusual to experience a light tingling sensation when applied.

Find it in: Elucent Anti-Ageing Night Moisturiser and Dr. LeWinn’s Reversaderm Cellular Regeneration Cream

SALICYLIC ACID

As the main player in beta hydroxy acids (BHA) realm, salicylic acid has the weight of the world—aka the pressure to decongest our skin—on its shoulders. It’s able to deliver thanks to a molecular structure that makes it oil-soluble, allowing it to deep-dive into congested pores, nixing blackheads and reducing breakouts. A hero ingredient for those battling adult acne, it’s become the MVP for oily skin types and also summer skin routines, too. Why the seasonal switch? Salicylic acid can cut through sebum, oil and sunscreen, providing a deep pore purge.

Find it in: Paula's Choice Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant

LACTIC ACID

Another AHA, lactic acid offers a gentler form of chemical exfoliant with added moisturising benefits—thanks to the fact that it’s derived from milk. Not to be confused with lactobionic acid—a mild and minimally-invasive skin resurfacer from the polyhydroxy acid family—lactic acid still packs a punch for a sensitive skin-friendly acid. Its principal objective is to reveal clearer, more radiant skin. Some skincare relies exclusively on lactic acid, others up the AHA ante by teaming lactic acid with glycolic for a turbo-charged anti-ageing hit.

Find it in: Dermalogica Gentle Cream Exfoliant and Synergie Skin Blem-X

FERULIC ACID

Leading the charge in the ‘other acids’ category—the one someone forgot to come up with a catchy acronym for—is ferulic acid. A powerhouse antioxidant, it’s found in plants, vegetables, nuts and seeds. Proven to fight and reduce free-radical damage when applied topically, it’s a no-brainer addition to your anti-ageing skin routine. Suitable for all skin types, with the exception of the hypersensitive, you can often find ferulic acid paired with retinol for a 360-approach to ageing—FYI you should never use retinol with AHAs or BHA. The two don’t mix and cause redness and irritation when used together.

Find it in: SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic

HYALURONIC ACID

The ‘acid’ in hyaluronic acid (HA) is a little deceiving. Exempt from any of the exfoliating/skin cell dissolving qualities that you’ll find with AHAs and BHA, HA instead tackles hydration. A natural humectant, it’s hailed as a superior ingredient for its ability to hold 1,000 times its weight in water. This moisture-binding becomes particularly beneficial as you age and skin loses its ability to hold moisture. Used in skincare to restore moisture, firmness, plumpness and suppleness, hyaluronic acid is also routinely added to cosmetics to boost hydration, plump and smooth fine lines and wrinkles.

Find it in: La Roche-Posay Hyalu B5 Hyaluronic Acid Anti-Ageing Serum

Main image credit: @chey_maya

Do you use any acids in your rouinte? If so, which do you like?

42 Member Comments

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Jhost 25 Nov 2020 8:30 PM

I’m a big fan of Glycolic Acid! I understand it isn’t for everyone but it works for me, I use Skinstitut cleanser and scrub and I use a toner from Mario Badescu, I can’t recommend these products enough! I do have oily skin and it keeps it under control without drying it out

Berylr 16 Nov 2020 2:39 PM

I wasnt aware that there are so many beneficial acids!

Beautybabe140194 3 Nov 2020 4:34 PM

I use salicylic acid to spot treat when I get pimples. I use hyaluronic acid on a regular basis in my night cream.

Jasmen111 30 Oct 2020 8:05 PM

I love a combination of AHA, BHA and PHA

jupiter 27 Oct 2020 2:14 PM

The Ordinary has products for each one of these acids at a very affordatble price.

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Jacinta89 18 Nov 2020 9:52 PM

YES! The Ordinary is great for cheap, effective skin actives. My husband uses their niacinamide and zinc for oily skin, and I love their caffeine solution for dark circles. Their retinoids are also fab.

Chrystalage 25 Oct 2020 11:42 PM

GA was too harsh for my skin but it also depends on the strength of the product, I don't need SA, I'm already using HA and my skin loves it, and I'd like to try the FA.

Miramarmari 24 Oct 2020 9:24 PM

Great breakdown of all the acids

Sally10 24 Oct 2020 4:58 PM

I was using a glycolic cleanser from Mario Badescu and it was too drying for me. I think it is much better suited to oily skin, I wouldn't recommend it for dry skin.

Shop A Everyday 24 Oct 2020 3:21 PM

I think I need some serious skin care advice

Angage 24 Oct 2020 3:11 PM

A great article to read.

AndreaJW 24 Oct 2020 1:20 PM

I have rosacea on my face so I don't think I should be using an acid on it.

Fefe 24 Oct 2020 12:55 PM

I’ve never thought of using acids before until I was chosen for a trial team using GLYCOLIC ACID and have to say I fell in love with it.

sootyblack_14 24 Oct 2020 12:04 PM

Interesting...

Hayley644 24 Oct 2020 9:22 AM

Loved that episode of SATC. Samantha had a chemical peel and her face turned bright red.

GeeJ 24 Oct 2020 12:40 AM

My skin is in the best condition since I've started using acids.

Tee631 23 Oct 2020 11:50 PM

I will add these to my Wishlist this Xmas

Eskimo82 23 Oct 2020 7:15 PM

I was using glycolic for a while but found it was too drying for me. I´ve since switched to lactic acid and that seems to be better for my skin, much more gentle. The results with lactic are less brightening, but I still find it smooths and exfoliates well.

Susmat 23 Oct 2020 4:41 PM

Yes 'acid' sounds too strong for my sensitive skin

clearcrystalwater 23 Oct 2020 4:05 PM

I've found the S acid to be very beneficial for my oily blemish prone skin type. It seems to keep my skin clear of blemishes.

Ellyloves 23 Oct 2020 2:24 PM

I am scared of using acid on my face!

Jessica712 23 Oct 2020 11:04 AM

Super helpful info in this article.

misfortune8 22 Oct 2020 6:15 PM

I'm zit-prone, so I love salicylic acid. I've got some serums to get through at home, then I'm going to get some ferulic acid.

S-P 22 Oct 2020 3:36 PM

I had never heard of Ferulic acid .... learnt something new today :)

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