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7 Genius Makeup Tips From Pro Makeup Artist Nikki DeRoest
Nikki DeRoest is a makeup artist of many talents. But it’s her ability to create the most gleaming, glowing and gorgeous skin that’s got the whole world wanting to know her artistry secrets.
She is, after all, the woman responsible for producing some of Rosie Huntington-Whiteley’s best looks and has painted the faces of Phoebe Tonkin and Shanina Shaik, too.
So when beautyheaven had the chance to interview Bobbi Brown’s Artist in Residence, we soaked up every bit of advice we could...
#1 Shimmer and pores don’t mix
If the main thing standing between you and a flawless base is enlarged pores, Nikki says to avoid shimmer or glitter in your products.
“They make the pores stand out more,” she tells us. “I never use blushes that have shimmer in them; I think you can get radiance from a cream [instead] or with the skin care you use behind.”
She’s also not one to use primer, preferring to diffuse the look of pores post-foundation instead. “I’ll usually add a little concealer on top of my foundation to reduce the look of pores and a really finely-milled powder for an airbrush finish without being heavy,” she says, speaking of the Bobbi Brown Sheer Finish Loose Powder.
#2 Choose the blush that looks the ugliest
It’s true that finding the right blush is personal and largely depends on your skin tone, but Nikki has another tip that can also help you start your blush journey.
“The one you think looks the ugliest in the packaging is the one that looks the best on the face,” she says. “We could go more in depth, but in general a neutral blush is the least exciting, the more muted, rosey-brown shade.”
Her favourite? Bobbi Brown Pot Rouge for Lips & Cheeks in ‘Powder Pink’; “a really dusty rose shade that’s a great neutral for everybody.”
Nikki recommends starting here and then once you find your neutral base line, “you can find one that looks more pink with a blue undertone or one that’s more peach with a warm undertone,” depending on whether you’re cool or warm.
#3 Always add hydration and shine to mature skin
As a general rule, Nikki says the older skin gets, the more hydration and shine is needed.
“I think that anything that looks fresh and hydrated always looks like youth,” she says.
“I always like to use the analogy of painting an old house; if you paint with a matte finish paint you can see every crack and line, but with a semi gloss paint, it diffuses any cracks and lines.”
And while she doesn’t like a shimmer blush, she says something hydrating and light-reflecting on the eyes can be very youthful. “It’s all an opposite game, everything you think might make you look older will probably make you look younger.”
#4 Define the lash line for hooded eyes
Trying to figure out eye makeup for hooded eyes? “You never want to put any darker shadows of depth in the crease,” advises Nikki. “You want to keep that light and bring the light forward.”
Instead, to create dimension, she says to keep everything close to the lash line and keep it narrow. “And if you’re trying to elongate the eye, look straight ahead into a mirror so your eye is open,” she says. That way you’ll be able to see the end result as you create it, instead of it disappearing as soon as you open your eye.
#5 The ‘triangle of youth’ is BS
Remember the ol’ faithful concealer hack of drawing triangles under your eyes? Nikki’s not a fan.
“The triangle one drives me crazy,” she says. “Just because I think we’re missing the purpose of what concealer is used for.”
“As it’s thicker, for me, concealer should literally only be placed in the areas you’re trying to brighten,” she explains. “And with the triangle it immediately gets heavy.”
Put simply, less is more.
And if it’s dark circles you’re trying to conceal, Nikki recommends going for a concealer with a peach or red undertone to take away the blue. She’s a big fan of Bobbi Brown’s Correctors and bh also loves jane iredale Enlighten Concealer.
#6 Choose full coverage for versatility
Surprisingly, the queen of glowing skin says if you can only invest in one base product to reach your luminosity goals, make it a full coverage foundation.
“That way you have control over the coverage and can confidently feel like you’re covered, but then you can also dilute it with an oil or skin care to sheer it out,” she explains.
Speaking of the Bobbi Skin Long-Wear Weightless Foundation SPF15 in particular, Nikki says, “when I need full coverage I’m able to build without it looking like it’s a heavy foundation. The formula has a moisturised luminosity, and as an artist I like to keep it close to me.”
If you have the means or option, tinted moisturiser is great, sure. But if you don’t, “take half a pump of full coverage foundation and mix with your moisturiser to turn the product into something else,” she suggests.
#7 Experiment with makeup before you shower
Want to put some of your new makeup tricks to the test? “If you want to experiment with makeup, the best time to do it is before your shower in the morning,” says Nikki.
“That way you can try new colours and if you don’t like it you’re not stuck with it.” Simply wash it off or keep your face away from the water if you like what you see. Genius!
Main image credit: @nikkideroest
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